What is Vaping?
The vaping industry has seen an exponential growth over the past three years or so. According to careful estimates, the industry boomed from $1.7 billion to $3.5 billion, from 2013 to 2015, and is expected to hit the $5 billion mark by the end of this year.
Despite the phenomenal growth and thousands of people switching to vaping, many still have no clue. Not a single day goes by when I don’t get asked the question: what is vaping? I get this question everywhere: emails, parties, gatherings, social media, text messages and what not. Sometimes, its close cousins also accompany it: is vaping safe, what is a vaporizer, is it safer than smoking cigarettes and so on.
So, today I decided to write this guide to answer all these questions.
“Vaping is the act of inhaling and exhaling the water vapor produced by an electric device called vaporizer (or e-cigarette).”
And if you’re wondering what is water vapor or vapor, it’s the e-liquid in gaseous form that is inhaled and exhaled by vapers. It usually looks thicker than smoke, but dissipates more quickly into the air and smells much batter, usually like fruit, candy, mint or the flavoring used.
Vaping is a tobacco-free, and in some cases even nicotine-free, version of a traditional tobacco cigarette, but we don’t use the word smoking as there is no smoke. But just for better understanding for those who don’t possess enough knowledge about what is vaping, I would say it’s smoking minus tobacco, the obnoxious smell, virtually all the side-effects and health risks, and even the smoke. Instead of a pack of cigarette, you use an electronic device which is usually refillable and rechargeable.
What is a Vape and How it Works?
To understand vaping, let’s figure out what is a vaporizer, sometimes also called a vape, and how it works.
A vape or vaporizer consists of a mouthpiece, battery, cartridge, atomizer or cartomizer, and circuitry with a sensor. A cartomizer is a modern replacement for atomizer that combines an atomizer and the cartridge into one unit. The cartridge contains the e-liquid or e-juice, while atomizer has a heating element, usually a thin metallic coil that is heated by the power generated by the battery. When a user takes a drag on the mouthpiece, the battery heats up the coil, a cotton wick absorbs e-liquid from the cartridge and when it gets in contact with the coil, which is hotter than the boiling point of the e-liquid, it naturally turns into vapor. This vapor is then inhaled by the user that reaches his lungs and is then exhaled. The e-liquid usually consists of PG/VG blend, nicotine, and flavoring.
In contrary to the popular belief that vaporizers were “invented” a few years ago, their history dates back thousands of years. The earliest mention of vaping can be seen in the book called The History of Herodotus by the Greek Historian Herodotus. He talks about the first use of vaping while writing about the customs and traditions of Scythians, a massive clan of Iranian Eurasian rovers who used to live in the lands of what is now Southern Russia, back in 500BC. Scythians would throw weed on red-hot stones, which would turn into vapor immediately, and they would bathe in it and inhale it. Probably not the most sophisticated vaporizer, but that surely was an interesting ritual.
Irfan Sheikh – the physician of the Mughal emperor Akbar I (1542 – 1605 AD) – is accredited with inventing hookah, many consider it a key step towards the making of the modern vaporizer.
The first modern-style vaporizer in the history is believed to be created and patented in 1960, by a Korean war veteran Herbert A. Gilbert. It’s amazing that the basic anatomy of a vape is still pretty much the same as Gilbert designed it. Towards the end of the 20th century, Bill Amato created a cult at the Sensi Seed Bank’s Hash Museum in Amsterdam, Netherlands with his outsized weed vaporizer, which won several awards at the exhibitions. His biggest success is known as the “shake and vape” vaporizer.
Early and mid-2000s mark the modern era of vapes when many manufacturers started creating and selling small, portable vaporizers. Some of the early vapes looked pretty much like a real cigarette and are sometimes referred to cig-a-likes. Nowadays, you can find vaporizers in all shapes and sizes, from giant desktop models to portable ones that are as small as a memory stick.
You might have seen someone using a vape at your local bar, heard a news story about them, or seen them over the counter of your local gas station. But all that is just the tip of an iceberg. Vaping has become a whole new culture, with vape manufacturers selling apparels, hats and gear with their name on it. What’s more, there are vape bars and online communities. To top it off, there are always people who want to take it to a whole new level, and in the world of vaping, they’re called cloud chasers. These folks have turned vaping into a competitive sport, which is called cloud chasing. The goal is simple, to produce the biggest, thickest and badest plumes of vapor. And guess what, this is just the beginning.
Lately, vaping has grown into something more than a subculture. For some people, it became a way of thinking. There are many communities around vaping. You can check out the Vaping Daily, one of the biggest online vaping communities and news sources.
Since vaping looks similar to smoking, the first thing people ask after they know what is vaping is where they can and cannot vape. In the early days, smokers were allowed to smoke anywhere, then airlines banned smoking, and eventually they have been banned virtually everywhere. Vaping is going down the same path, even though several health practitioners and health institutes recommend using vaporizers, because of their potential for harm-reduction.
FDA is trying to apply strict regulations, and so does the government. However, unlike cigarettes, vapes are more socially acceptable and can be vaped in more places. Different cities and countries have different legislations, finding out if there are any restrictions in a certain area is simple. Respect the rules and be mindful of the people around you, and you’ll be fine.
What Do You Need to Start Vaping?
There are different vaporizers for vaping different material such as dry herbs, oils, and wax concentrates. Although there are some hybrid vapes that allow you to use multiple mediums by simply switching a cartridge, they either are very expensive or perform poorly. Here are some of the types of vaporizers:
Vaporizers or medical marijuana vaporizers are usually used to vape dry herbs. These vaporizers are usually expensive, and can cost you anywhere between $45 and $300, or even more. Since there is no combustion but weed is turned into vapor by extreme heat coming from either a heating ceramic plate or hot air, the harmful compounds don’t get to your lungs.
With so much variety, choosing a good vape for your dry herbs can be extremely confusing. To make sure you don’t have buyer’s remorse, click here to check out our comprehensive page that we’ve set up to make choosing your ideal vaporizer as easy as pie.
They turn e-juice or e-liquid into vapor and are the most common types of vaporizers. Electronic cigarettes or e-cigs can be cig-a-like disposables that cost just a few bucks or high-end rechargeable, refillable devices that can cost up to $200. These vapes try to mimic the sensation of smoking a real tobacco cigarette. In addition to the device, the vaping experience mainly depends on the e-liquid. They are flavored e-juices that may or may not have some nicotine in them.
If you want to know more about e-cigs, the best brands or the best products, check our electronic cigarettes page here.
Vape tanks or cartomizers are one of the very important parts of your vaping gear. They hold the e-liquid and have a coil that, when activated, can turn the liquid into vapor. Choosing vape tanks can be a pain in the butt, especially if you don’t know this stuff really well. When buying a tank, it’s very important to make sure it matches your mod or the best of the tanks even when paired with the best of the mods, might not offer good vapor just because they are not optimized for each other.
Vape tanks come in four major types: Standard, Sub-Ohm, RDAs (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizers) and RBAs (Rebuildable Tank Atomizers). Each of these is suitable for different type of mods. Vape tanks can be expensive, and it’s not a good idea to experiment. Click here to learn more about vape tanks and exactly which tank should you get for your mod.
Vape mods are enhanced vaporizers with additional parts, more power, and more features. Mods are customized to cater vaping needs of different types of vapers. For example, some vapers prefer their vapor to be more flavor-rich that goes easy on the throat and is easy to inhale, while others want thick vapor, so they can exhale big plumes (or even do some vape tricks). Each of them will need a different type of vape mod. If you want to know what type of mod will you need, click here to check out the best vape mods available on the market.
How to Find Vape Shops Near You
When people want to try out a vaporizer, they usually go to their local gas station or convenience store and usually end up buying one of the worst products available. These types of stores only sell cheap products for inflated prices to get the maximum profit margin. Other, smarter people, would go online where they can find all types and quality of vaporizers and other vaping gear, and even find some discounted deals.
However, some people want to actually feel a product before paying their hard-earned cash for it. Also, waiting for like two weeks for a new vaporizer to arrive when your old one goes bad is simply not an option for many. This is where you need to go a local vape shop, that offers a greater variety at a good price. But finding a vape shop can be hard because not many people will know about it.
This is where our online vape shops locator can come in handy. I call it Waze of vaping. The tool is simple, available online so no need to install any additional app, very simple to use and very accurate. All you have to do is key in your address or just the zip code, and it will show all the nearby vape stores. In fact, even though it’s extremely simple, yet it has too many features to list here. So click here and try it yourself.
Is Vaping Really Safe?
Well, this is a question that usually follows the question what is vaping. So, instead of giving you my personal opinion, let me simply state the results of some of the researches carried out to find the answer:
- “Vaping is at least 95% safer than smoking.” Public Health England
- Vaporizers are many times less harmful than traditional tobacco cigarettes, and vaping can even help smokers quit. American Heart Association
- The proven advantages of vaping outweigh its “potential” harms. Vaporizers are the first genuinely new way of helping people quit smoking that we have seen in many years. Royal College of Physicians
- Exhaled vapor has lesser volatile organic compounds than the normal exhaled breath, let alone exhaled smoke. Spanish Council of Scientific Research
So, is vaping safe? Well, despite all these researches and studies, we can’t say that vaporizers pose absolutely no threat to your health. But hey, even the healthiest foods you eat aren’t 100% safe. So let’s put the answer this way: vaping is exponentially safer than smoking, and can be a great aid in harm-reduction. You find more information about if vaping is bad in this article.
After reading this guide, now you know what is vaping and how you can vape. However, vaporizers are only an ideal device for ex-smokers who want to try to avoid the countless health risks of tar-laden tobacco cigarettes. If you are underage or don’t smoke, just stay away from vaping. Although there is no combustion and vaping really doesn’t have any hazards, vapers must take caution when charging their batteries, or vaping around other people, kids or pets. Also, remember nicotine can be poisonous if ingested, so make sure you keep it in child-proof bottles, away from kids and pets. Enjoy your vape, and say goodbye to bad breath, cancer risks and many other perils of smoking.
Courtesy of: https://quitsmokingcommunity.org/what-is-vaping/
When people start vaping, they don’t care much about the vaporizer, e-cig or vape mod they’re using. But gradually they want to improve the experience. Then, they want the best of everything, the best mod, the best e-liquid and the best batteries. There is a lot of debate and some good pieces of advice about vaping gears and vaping materials, but ironically things get complicated when it comes to vape batteries. When choosing the best vape batteries, the last thing you should consider is their price. A good battery will last for a long time, and a difference of a couple bucks doesn’t even matter. So, the million-dollar question is: what is the best vape battery?
Well, asking that question is akin to asking what is the best car? You will get as many answers as the number of people you ask the question to. The 18650 battery is the ideal choice when it comes to vaping. However, there is no one battery that would qualify to be the ultimate best 18650 battery, but we can find the best battery in different classes, each for vapers with different style and expectations.
Why 18650 Batteries for Vaping?
So, what makes the 18650 the ideal choice for vapers? Why not the preinstalled batteries, such as you see in ELeaf Mini, Kamry 20W etc.? They are compact and yet fairly powerful. Moreover, you don’t even need to buy new batteries or external chargers. You can start vaping as soon as you buy your vaping gear. What’s more, you don’t have to worry about any safety concerns with the built-in batteries.
Well, while the built-in batteries might offer several advantages, they are pretty much disposable. Once they deteriorate, you have to throw away the whole unit. On top of that, the 18650 give you a lot more control over your mod and battery quality. The moment you load high-quality batteries, your vaping experience goes through the roof. You can choose any type of batteries (either high amperage or high mAh – which we’ll discuss shortly), and you can replace the batteries when they reach the end of their lifecycle.
Desired characteristics of a good vape battery
- Amperage and mAh
What the heck these two terms mean anyway?
Put simply, the amperage roughly translates to power i.e. how much current the battery can offer at one time. The higher the current, the higher the wattage output you get. On the flip, mAh is Milliamp Hours, which in layman terms is the overall life of the battery. Here’s a simple analogy to explain the two terms. Imagine a big champagne bottle; the milliamp-hours is the overall size of the bottle, which tells you how much “juice” it can hold while the amperage can be correlated to the neck of the bottle, whose width dictates how much juice can go out at one time. So, mAh and amperage together show how long your battery will last.
Theoretically, a 2000mAh battery should draw 2000 milliamp for one hour, or 1000 milliamp for two hours. However, in practice it’s different as the batteries are not 100% efficient and a Samsung 25R’s 2500mAh won’t always offer 2500 milliamp for one hour. Although these settings don’t give a perfect idea, however, they can help you roughly compare two batteries. For instance, a 3000mAH LG HG2 will most likely last longer than any 1500mAh battery.
So, you would want to get a high mAh and high amperage battery, right? It will definitely offer the highest power. But in the real world, that’s not possible unfortunately. The technology today has its limitations, and fitting everything into a small 18650 isn’t possible yet. There is a tradeoff between high current and capacity. So, if you want a high power battery, you’ll have to compromise on capacity, and vice versa. So, we basically have three main types of vaping batteries: high capacity and low power, high power and low capacity, and then there some which are in between that try to offer a comprise between the two.
Whenever vaping at high wattage, just make sure you know your battery well, and don’t put too much burden on it – which is called overdrawing. If you overdraw a battery, it might get overheated, and although most batteries have protection against overheating, you don’t want to take the risk.
- High voltage, low temperature
To get higher wattage, you want your battery to offer higher voltage. To attain even higher wattage, some modern mods come with two 18650 batteries, but that’s a different story which we’ll cover in a later section. For regulated devices, the batteries don’t have to work very hard but for mechanical, unregulated mods, you want high voltage to get those “hard hits” – a favorite of cloud chasers. More voltage means the coil will get hotter, a hotter coil means more vapor, more vapor means bigger clouds and more flavor, which is the ultimate goal of every vaper.
Ironically, different batteries run at different voltages, even when they are producing same amount of current. Your best bet is to go for the one that runs at the highest voltage, for extended periods. These types of batteries can be greatly beneficial, no matter you’ve a regulated or unregulated mod. However, a battery that does run for very long on very high voltage also needs to function at reasonably low temperature. At very high temperatures, the battery can get hot enough to vent or burst.
Understanding the Labels
If you don’t have a lot of working experience of the batteries, information given on the batteries won’t make a lot of sense to you. This information is extremely important for vapers, so let’s demystify some of the most common terms you’ll see. Remember, most 18650 batteries produce 3.7V, and chargers have an auto-shut off system when the battery reaches 4.2V.
I : a Lithium-Ion (Li-ion) battery
M : Positive ion is Manganese
C : Positive ion is Cobalt
N : Positive ion is Nickel
F : Positive ion is Iron (the symbol for iron is Fe)
R : Round
F : Flat
18650 : the battery is 18mm thick and 65mm in height
For example, in case of the Samsung INR18650, it’s a Li-Ion battery, with nickel as positive ion, round shape, dimensions: 18mm by 65mm. Likewise, the LG IMR 18650 2500mAh 3.6V is a Li-Ion battery, with Manganese as positive ion, round shape, dimensions: 18mm by 65mm, a capacity of 2500mAh and 3.6V nominal voltage.
Five Classes of Vape Batteries
While there is no standard classification of batteries per se, but for better understanding, we have divided them into five classes, based on their capacity. According to our experience and personal likings, we’ll also recommend the best in class for each category.
- Class One – 3500mAh
The Class One has the highest capacity of 3500mAh, however, they usually have the lowest discharge i.e. 10 amp or even lower. These type of batteries are ideal for use with mods having wattage of 30W or lower, and can support resistances of 0.5ohm and above.
The best in Class One is LG MJ1 18650, a relatively new battery with a capacity of up to 3500mAh, an average voltage of 3.6V and a lifespan of up to 400 cycles. The battery isn’t one of the cheapest options, and can cost you around $15.
- Class Two – 3000mAh
Another high capacity class, with a 3000mAH capacity and a slightly higher, 15amp, discharge. They are ideal for use with 30-60W mods. These batteries can support a coil resistance of as low as 0.27ohm.
The winner for Class Two is the Samsung INR18650-30Q, with a maximum capacity of 3000mAh and 15amp discharge rate. With a nominal voltage of 3.6V, this is a rather more affordable choice costing around $6.
- Class Three – 2500mAh
For Class Three, the capacity comes down to 2500mAh but the discharge rate goes up to 20amps. Ideal for use with medium wattage i.e. 60 to 80 watts, these batteries usually support a resistance as low as 0.19ohm.
LG is again the winner in Class Three with its LG HE2 18650 battery that has a capacity of 2500mAh and 20amp discharge rate. It offers a voltage of 3.7v and costs around $12.
- Class Four – 2000mAh
As the capacity comes down to 2000mAh for Class Four, the amperage goes up to 25amps. These batteries are ideal for use with powerful mods that can support wattage between 80 and 120W and a coil resistance of 0.15ohm.
Sony US18650VTC4 with a maximum capacity of 2100mAh and discharge of 30A is the winner in class four. It offers nominal voltage of 3.7V and costs around $10.
- Class Five – 1500mAh
The class with lowest capacity of 1500mAh has the highest discharge rate of up to 30amps, and can be used with very powerful mods i.e. more than 120W. Moreover, they can support extremely low resistance, such as 0.12ohm.
The best in Class Five is LG HB6 with a capacity of 1500mAh and 30amp discharge. It has a nominal voltage of 3.6V and costs around $5.
How about rewrapped batteries for vaping?
Only the three big battery manufacturers could make it to our top five list because most other vape battery brands are rewrapped cells from these manufacturers. Toshiba, Panasonic, Hitachi, and BYD also offer decent 18650 vaping batteries. The biggest possible issue with rewrapped batteries is that they can be the pieces that didn’t make it through quality assurance and testing by the renowned manufacturers, and are purchased by a different company, rewrapped and sold under a different brand name. Usually, they have exaggerated ratings and sometimes even a higher price.
Some rewrapped batteries are of decent quality and even their rating can be nearly the same as mentioned on the label. However, it’s better to stay away from these murky waters because they are not from actual manufacturers, but just brands who have nothing to lose.
How to calculate wattage output of a battery
While mod manufacturers label the power in terms of wattage, battery manufacturers do so in terms of amperage and voltage. So, for newbies, it might be a little confusing if the battery they are buying will give enough power to attain maximum wattage. Fortunately, it’s very easy to calculate how much wattage your battery will give. If you have a single vape that supports 18650, your voltage is 4V (more accurately it’s about 3.7V but to make calculations easier we use 4), and for dual battery vape, the voltage is 8V. Multiplying the voltage with amps will give the approximate wattage output. For example, if you have a 160W dual battery mod, you need two 18650 batteries of 20amp (20*8=160). Likewise, if you own a 40W mod, you can do with a 10amp battery (10*4=40) and also enjoy a higher capacity.
Single battery or dual battery mod?
Vapers want bigger clouds and manufacturers have done a variety of things to fulfil their fantasies, from ridiculously lowering the resistance of coils to using very high power batteries. Some modern, high power mods that offer wattage as high as 200, can’t simply run a single 18650 battery, so the manufacturers used two 18650 vape batteries. This not only increases the output power, but also doubles the battery life.
So, does that mean you should always choose a mod that supports two batteries? Maybe, or maybe not. The extra power comes at a cost. Firstly, the dual 18650 mods are bigger in size and not very pocket-friendly. Secondly, while many mods can be charged with a USB cable, the dual 18650 mods need an external charger. Lastly, they cost considerably more than a mod that supports a single battery. So depending on your style and expectations, you can either choose a single or dual battery mod.
Protected vs unprotected batteries
While most batteries produced today are protected batteries, there are some unprotected batteries that you should either stay away from or use with extreme care. Protected batteries have a built-in, small circuit board in them that prevents the battery from overcharge, over-discharge or even overheating. While this smart circuit is absent in unprotected batteries, extra caution is required when using or charging them. When they are in use, unprotected batteries produce 4.2V when fully charged, but then their output quickly comes down to somewhere around 3.6V. Once they are close to being fully discharged, their voltage drops very rapidly, and if discharged below 3V, they become simply unusable. When charging, you need a special charger that stops charging the batteries once they are fully charged i.e. 4.2V, or the batteries can get damaged.
Rumored Tesla 18650 batteries
Tesla, the prestigious American automotive and energy store company, is rumored to be working on their own 18650 battery, in a secret plant somewhere in the Nevada desert. If you’re wondering why would they make vape batteries, you probably don’t know that Tesla Model S has a special 70-90 kWh lithium-ion battery, which contains thousands of cylindrical 18650 battery cells. Tesla is already an industry leader in terms of battery, but they want to take it to a new level. The company is working out on changing the way the 18650 batteries are made, and are trying to offer the most powerful yet the most affordable batteries. We aren’t so sure how they will make the badest batteries, but maybe making one battery in massive quantities – like Samsung makes their 25R – could bring the manufacturing cost down.
If the rumors about Tesla 18650 batteries are even remotely true, this could be a great news for vapers. We might see a whole new line of mods after the breakthrough in battery manufacturing happens. Let’s keep our fingers crossed.
Safety and battery preservation tips
- Keep your batteries out of reach of children and pets.
- If you had to do just one thing to manifold your vape battery’s life, it should be not charging it to a 100%. In other words, instead of charging to 4.2V, charge it to about 3.6V or 3.8V and use it.
- Assuming you’re using a protected battery, if you fully charge your battery, then calibrate it. It means to use your battery until it’s nearly empty and then charge it again.
- Don’t buy a cheap charger. Get a reputable charger, that lets you adjust the voltage. If you’re a serious vaper, choose a more sophisticated charger like the Soshine S7. You’ll be able to see how much energy your battery is taking in, so you’ll know if you’re really getting the mAh you’ve paid for and how quickly your battery is degrading over time.
- Don’t leave your batteries dead for too long.
- If you intend not to use your batteries for a while, charge them to about 60% and store them in a cool, dry place — ideally around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. While some people store batteries in the refrigerator, most battery manufacturers say it’s not necessary. If you really want to store your 18650 in a fridge, make sure to put them in a sealed plastic bag to prevent condensation.
- Never leave batteries in your device or charger for too long, when you’re not using them.
- Don’t leave dead batteries in your device; instantly take them out and dispose them off properly.
- Never disassemble, crush, damage or throw your batteries in fire.
- Don’t carry loose batteries in your pocket, especially with other metallic objects like coins as there is always a risk of short-circuit.
- If you have a dual battery mod, never use one old and one new battery together.
- Don’t use two different types or brands of batteries together, no matter if they have the same power and capacity.
- Clean the contact surfaces of your batteries by gently rubbing them with pencil eraser or a clean cloth.
Having trouble with your gear?
Follow our tips to keep you vaping…
‘ATOMIZER LOW’ ERROR
1“Atomizer Low” flashes on the screen of your regulated mod, and you wonder, how could this be?
Before we answer this question, you should keep something in mind. Even though the worldwide vaping community is hyper-connected, we have yet to define standards. Just like in the heyday of any industry, different manufacturers don’t share anything globally. Not yet, anyway.
Unfortunately, “Atomizer Low” can mean different things depending on the mod you use. Usually, it stems from the resistance of your coils. The mod reads that the coils are a lower resistance than the lowest allowed resistance of your device.
Let’s say you have an Eleaf iStick 30w mod, and you try to use a Horizon Arctic tank on it.
The Arctic includes a 0.2 ohm coil, which is too low for your 30w iStick. This mod can only read resistance down to 0.4 ohms.
This answer is not an end-all. “Atomizer Low” can also mean there is a short in the coil, a poor resistance reading, loosely seated coil, or a faulty 510 connection on the device.
The quickest fix for this error is to make sure your atomizer is compatible with your mod.
Most current devices on the market will have resistance limitations listed in the user manual, make sure you double check the specs.
With the iStick 30w used in this example, you will need to use coils that are 0.4 ohms or higher.
Variations in pre-built coils that can differ up to the tenths of an ohm, make sure your coils are not cutting it too close to the mod’s limit.
If your coil resistance is close to your mods lowest limit, pop in a spare coil into the tank and try to fire up the mod.
‘CHECK ATOMIZER’ ERROR
2 This is a general-purpose warning like “Atomizer Low.” Oftentimes, “Check Atomizer” indicates the 510 connection on your mod doesn’t register your tank. Some devices spit this error out when there is a short or a bad resistance reading/loose coil.
If your mod does not see your atomizer, it can’t determine the resistance, and it can’t send power to the coils.
Sometimes, out of nowhere, a device can deliver this error and leave you stranded without a vape.
Suppose you are at work, and just got out of a tense meeting. You are about to take a vape and your IPV4 says “Check Atomizer.”
Without any tools, the only thing you can do is remove the tank and clean the 510 area, both on the tank and the mod.
If there is an adjustable 510 pin on the atomizer, make sure that it isn’t missing.
When you re-seat the tank or clearomizer, try to thread it only until you start to feel a little resistance.
This means your tank is making contact with the mod. Take great care not to over-tighten your tank when you put it back on.
Over time, doing so will damage the 510 connection on the mod and/or internal wiring as well. This is especially the case for spring-loaded 510 pins.
Suppose that didn’t help… Well, then you have to try to troubleshoot.
Is it the IPV4 or the tank?
Try another known working tank on the IPV4, to see if it still outputs the error. If it works fine, you have a problem with the tank.
If not, there is an internal error with the device, send it out for service!
RESISTANCE (OHMS) JUMPING
3The resistance you see on your ohm meter or mod is actually a calculation, it is not a perfect metric.
Suppose you have a pre-built 0.5 ohm coil, and you are using a regulated mod. If the mod reads resistance down to tenths only (0.1), you will see a calculation of 0.5 ohms.
Most pre-built coils have a variation of 0.1 +/- from being handmade. That means a 5-pack of 0.5 ohm coils can actually include a 0.6 ohm and a 0.4 ohm in there, too.
If you see your resistance reading jump by a tenth or two, it is not cause for alarm.
When your resistance reading jumps from 0.5 ohms to 1.5 or 2.5 ohms, you know you have a problem.
When the mod thinks you have a high resistance coil, it will output much more voltage.
This will burn the coil outright, since the true resistance is actually 0.5 ohms, not 2.5 ohms.
Troubleshooting is the best way to figure this problem out. The first thing to do is to figure out whether it is the atomizer or the mod.
Let’s say it looks like a Subtank may be at fault. Try that Subtank on a different regulated mod to see if it also jumps around.
If it is the tank, generally replacing the coil will fix this issue. If that still doesn’t work, it is the Subtank base that needs changing.
If it is not the atomizer, it is the mod. Let’s say an eVic VT looks like it is to blame. Take the hypothetical Subtank off, and put on a different atomizer.
Unless you are an expert coil builder, I would suggest using another pre-built coil tank.
Oftentimes, your RDA deck built out by hand won’t get as stable a reading as a manufactured coil head in a tank.
If the mod’s resistance reading is still jumping around, you found the culprit. Send it off to service!
BURNT TASTE / DRY HITS
4If you take a hit from your mod and you get a nasty taste, you may be experiencing a burnt coil. Dry hits were far more prevalent back in the early days of vaping, when silica wick use was widespread.
It is not that use of cotton has ended this issue, but dry burning silica had an especially repulsive taste to it.
Although new coils with silica are becoming harder to find, cotton burns too. The unpleasant taste given off is a symptom of firing too high voltage at the coil in too little time.
The wicking process can’t keep up and as a result the wick dries faster than it soaks up liquid.
Once you burn your wick, the coil head will never taste the same. It cannot saturate anymore juice in the burnt area, and will be far less efficient.
Keep in mind, wattage and voltage work in sync. High wattage allows more voltage to pass. Low wattage limits voltage to the coils. The higher the resistance of your coil, the less wattage you can apply to it. The lower the resistance of your coil head, the more wattage you can push to it.
For example, 0.2 ohm coil heads from Horizon Tech can take up to 70 watts of power. While the 2.4 ohm coil heads from Kanger can’t take any more than 7 watts without burning up.
Not too long ago, pre-built coils had tiny wick holes for juice, at a time when syrupy VG juice became popular.
High VG e-liquid caused coils to burn out fast, so the industry moved towards more robust coils.
The newest tanks on the market have made huge advancements towards negating dry hits.
Organic cotton distributed throughout the surface combined with huge coil head juice holes for better saturation.
You should always start with lower power and work your way up.
Once you get used to your atomizer, it will be easier to determine if you are applying too much power.
Like a new car out of the showroom, wear in your coil in first at lower wattage. You should be able to raise power after the coil wears in.
Check out our chart for optimal wattage & resistance with pre-built coils:
NO ATOMIZER CONNECTION
5The most important connection between your atomizer and your mod is the 510 connection. Both your tank and your device have one.
Many devices have self-leveling 510 connectors, but some have adjustable ones. This means you need a screwdriver to adjust the 510 pin up or down, to meet your atomizer.
If you have an adjustable 510 on your atomizer, you may need to adjust that as well, to meet the 510 on the mod.
If you thread your tank onto your device and do not feel any resistance, one of the 510 pins are not touching the other.
Adjust one or the other, and thread the tank back on. Once you feel resistance, tighten a tad more and stop.
No need to over-tighten the tank onto the mod, otherwise you can damage the 510 connection.
LEAKING ATOMIZER TANK
6If your tank is leaking juice, it is time to troubleshoot. You do not want juice getting into the battery compartment or worse, the circuitry.
To find the culprit, the first thing you should do is take the tank off of your device.
Let’s say your Kanger Subtank is leaking. The first thing to do is to take the base off and check if the coil is loose.
If you can tighten the coil down further, there is your problem.
The o-ring should be watertight to prevent juice leaking through the base and out of the airflow valve.
If the coil is nice and seated, the next step is to see for a hairline fracture in the glass. This can be a pain to see, but in the right light it is visible.
Take a look at the o-rings for the tank section as well. See if one is missing or folded over itself, thereby allowing juice seepage.
On a Subtank, the glass tank section is out in the open and can crack.
If there is no hairline fracture in the glass, you can be missing an o-ring in the coil-thread area. This can sometimes happen, manufacturers have accidentally also sent coils without o-rings many times.
Compare the coil you are using to the other coil your tank came with to see if there is a missing o-ring. If you bought an extra 5-pack of coils, check those too.
Finally, if nothing else helps, you can start to blame the base of the atomizer.
If the coil head can’t thread on easy, the threads may be gone. If that is the case, juice may be escaping via the threads down through the airflow inlet.
BATTERY LEVEL INDICATOR DROPS WHILE VAPING
7The vast majority of regulated devices show you a battery life indicator. On some mods, you see the battery level indicator drop while vaping.
This means when you hit the firing button, the battery discharges, and it looks empty on the screen.
This is called “battery sag.” What is happening is that the indicator shows how much voltage is coming out of the battery. At full power, the sag is substantial, but at lower power it may show less sag.
When you release the firing button, the battery readout goes back to normal. Only while you are discharging the cell will the battery indicator flash empty.
While this is technically not user-error and is completely out of a user’s control, it is good practice to charge your mod or batteries before there is no charge remaining at all.
Over-discharging cells is a common way to prematurely drain your batteries before their time is due.
Mechanical mods do not tell you when your battery depletes. On a regulated box mod, when the battery gets down to 3.4V nominal charge remaining, it is time to charge it.
Stop and charge the mod or batteries at 10-20% charge remaining to get the most longevity out of your battery cells.
THE DANGERS OF HYBRID CONNECTORS
8Hybrid devices are the most dangerous mechanical mods. By design, hybrids have less voltage drop, but they also have limitations.
Never use a pre-built coil tank on a hybrid mod, to do so is to find the quickest way to the emergency room.
That positive pin needs to stay insulated and away from the negative ground. It will not do so on a hybrid!
Once both positive and negative (ground) currents meet at your 510 connector, it will be too late to unscrew the tank off of your hybrid mod.
The mod and atomizer will become so hot, you won’t be able to touch them without getting burned badly.
At this point, you better run in the opposite direction and make sure the mod is away from anyone else around you as well.
The scenario described above is what can happen if you’re uninformed about battery safety and carelessly operating a mechanical device. If you’re not sure about it, never be afraid to ask an experienced vaper or your local shop for some pointers.
Oftentimes you see a news report about the dangers of vaping, complete with a vaper that sustained injury. Many times, it is due to using a hybrid mod with a tank that’s unsuitable for hybrid connections.
Regulated devices, whether boxes or tubes, are far safer than hybrid mods. They have built-in protection to prevent improper battery cell discharge.
Your Sigelei 150w or Kanger KBox will protect you from shorts, vents, and reverse polarity, among many other things. The newer the device, generally, the more advanced the protections are.
Courtesy of: https://originvape.com/8-common-user-errors-in-vaping/?from=groupmessage